Tang Dynasty Ronghua velvet flowers: Hairpins of Splendor and Millennia of Craftsmanship

The origins of Ronghua velvet flowers date back over 2,200 years to the Qin Dynasty. According to the "Gujinzhu" Emperor Qin Shi Huang ordered his concubines to wear colorless tongcao (Suduo) seeds, which is considered the prototype of Ronghua velvet flowers. The Tang Dynasty marked a crucial period in the development of Ronghua velvet flowers, with their craftsmanship becoming increasingly sophisticated. They became tribute items to the imperial court, worn only by high-ranking concubines. They became luxury items available only to royalty and aristocracy, becoming known as "official flowers." This vibrant color was not only a fashion icon of the Tang Dynasty court but also a shining testament to the millennia-old intangible cultural heritage of this art.

 In "Court Ladies Wearing Flowered Headdresses" the towering buns of Tang Dynasty ladies are adorned with vibrant flowers. These blossoms are not only dazzling but also timeless—they are the Ronghua velvet flowers that flourished during the Tang Dynasty.

01 Millennia of Origins: Why Did Ronghua velvet flowers Flourish in the Tang Dynasty?

The popularity of Ronghua velvet flowers during the Tang Dynasty was closely tied to the social landscape and aesthetic tastes of the time.

The Tang Dynasty's economic prosperity and cultural openness led to a diverse array of adornments for women. While beautiful, fresh flowers are subject to seasonal constraints and are prone to withering. Peonies, in particular, a favorite of noblewomen, only bloom for a little over twenty days. Furthermore, fresh flowers can be inconvenient to wear, such as fading, petal shedding, and difficulty in handling. Ronghua velvet flowers, which are nearly indistinguishable from the real thing, became an ideal alternative. The Tang Dynasty rulers' fondness for Ronghua velvet flowers also fueled their development. Every year at the beginning of spring, Emperor Zhongzong of Tang, Li Xian, would order attendants to fetch Ronghua velvet flowers from the palace and give one to each person present to welcome the New Year.

02 In what settings did Ronghua velvet flowers flourish, both in the palace and among the people?

In the Tang Dynasty, Ronghua velvet flowers were primarily worn as headdresses, pinned into buns to enhance the beauty of their voluminous hair.

In the palace, Ronghua velvet flowers were a common adornment for concubines and palace maids. They were not only favored by the imperial concubines but also featured at palace banquets. According to the Ciyuan (Lexicology) dictionary, "palace flowers" refer to "flowers worn by successful candidates in the imperial examinations during the reign of the Emperor at banquets bestowed upon them."

The royal nobility's admiration for Ronghua velvet flowers also influenced their popularity among the common people, with women wearing Ronghua velvet flowers of varying grades and values. However, due to the low productivity of the time, the silk thread used to make Ronghua velvet flowers was not readily available to ordinary people. Therefore, Ronghua velvet flowers were equally popular among the common people, though not as refined and high-end as the materials used in the imperial court. Wearing flowers was considered beautiful by everyone, young and old, regardless of gender. Tang Dynasty painter Zhou Fang's "Ladies with Flowers in Their Hairpins" depicts a Tang Dynasty lady wearing flowers in her hair while out and about. Maids in central China wear Ronghua velvet flowers of varying seasons on their heads, demonstrating why Ronghua velvet flowers have become a popular folk art form, appreciated by both the elite and the masses.

03 Silk and Copper Wire: How were Ronghua velvet flowers made in the Tang Dynasty?

Ronghua velvet flowers are made primarily from high-quality silk and copper wire. The production process is complex and meticulous, entirely handcrafted, and involves numerous steps, including refining, dyeing, airing, skeining, ironing, toeing, and passing the flowers. The key step is to prepare the velvet: after purchasing the silk, it is cooked in alkaline water, but not too mushy. This cooked silk is called cooked velvet, and is used to make the petals and stamens of Ronghua velvet flowers. To make the velvet strips, the artist fixes the cooked velvet, brushes it flat, clamps the velvet with copper wire, and twists it into strips. The strips are then sharpened (pointed) with scissors and assembled into various shapes (sticking the flowers). Ronghua velvet flowers are primarily colored in vibrant red, bright red, and peach red, supplemented by pink, dark green, and scallion green, with yellow and gold accents, creating a vibrant and rich look.

04 Intangible Cultural Heritage: How has velvet flower craftsmanship been passed down from the Tang Dynasty to the present day?

The art of velvet flower making has evolved throughout history. While Tang Dynasty Ronghua velvet flowers were exquisitely crafted, they were relatively simpler than later works. In 2006, Nanjing Ronghua velvet flowers were designated an intangible cultural heritage of Jiangsu Province, and in 2009, Beijing's velvet birds (Ronghua velvet flowers) were added to the municipal list of intangible cultural heritage. Velvet flower crafts, a millennium-old craft, have regained their glory and garnered increased attention. With the rise of Hanfu (Chinese traditional clothing), velvet flower ornaments have resurfaced in the public eye, becoming a treasured treasure of intangible cultural heritage.

Tang Dynasty velvet flower artisans might have found it hard to imagine that their meticulously crafted palace ornaments would still grace the fashion stage millennia later. In intangible cultural heritage workshops in Nanjing and Yangzhou, silk weaving craftsmen continue to use ancient techniques. Their velvet flower phoenix crowns have appeared in films and television series like "Empresses in the Palace" and "Journey to the West," offering modern audiences a glimpse into Tang Dynasty fashion.

Velvet flower is no longer just a hair ornament; it has become a unique visual symbol of Chinese culture, transcending time and space to continue its millennia-long splendor. A strand of silk, a single copper wire, through the hands of artisans, unleashes the timeless splendor of the Tang Dynasty.